Rwanda Solo: A Guide

Rwanda is a perfect country to travel solo in. As a female traveller who has seen a lot of Africa, I cannot rate Rwanda high enough as a place you really need to visit.

If you are seeking a traditional African experience – raw, chaotic and unhinged – you won’t find that in Rwanda. It is safe, clean, has a reliable nationwide public transit system, a myriad of attractions, gorgeous scenery and friendly locals.

For a small country, Rwanda really has a lot to offer solo travellers.

Where to go

 

Rwanda is smaller than most African countries. Made up of thirty districts, the country is really well connected. If not relying on local public transport, you can easily hire a car and self-drive yourself. The roads are impeccable, well signed and safe to drive even at night.

Kigali

Rwanda’s capital is Kigali and where you will land if flying into the country. It is one of East Africa’s most vibrant and developing cities with a multitude of restaurants, art galleries, and fascinating neighbourhoods. Spend some time exploring the Kimironko Market, colourful Nyamirambo neighbourhood, and chaotic city centre, and be sure to visit the Kigali Genocide Memorial museum.

Musanze

Musanze, Rwanda’s second largest city, is home to gorilla trekking, the twin lakes, and several gorgeous volcanoes. There is a bus from Kigali’s Nyabugogo bus terminal that takes you to Musanze. Yes, the gorilla trekking is one of the most expensive activities in the country, but it is well worth the price tag. Gorilla trekking permits will set you back USD$1500 per person and gives you 1 hour with the gorillas once you reach them.

Other activities in the area include a hike of Mt. Bisoke for the possibility of seeing mountain gorillas and the crystal-clear crater lake at the summit. Journey outside of Musanze for a visit to the twin lakes, camping on Ile de Cyuza, a gorgeous island in the centre of Lake Burera. Days are quiet here, with the easy lap of the lakeshore and caw of fish eagles making up most of the din. Motorcycles, taxis, and public buses render Musanze one of Rwanda’s best-connected districts.

Akagera National Park

It is here you will find Rwanda’s only big five safari experience. Getting to Akagera National Park will require your own transport and for the adventurous solo traveller, be sure to rent a 4×4 and journey through Africa’s largest protected wetland and camp underneath some of the country’s best stars. Campsites are available throughout the park as well as Akagera Game Lodge, and safari permits are easily purchased without reservation at Akagera’s southern gates. It is recommended that you hire a guide for USD$40 per day as they are knowledgeable and will make the game drive experience much more rewarding. Visit the Freelance Guides Page here for more information.

Lake Kivu

Lake Kivu is Rwanda’s largest lake and located on the country’s western border. The atmosphere around the lake is relaxed and communal. The two biggest towns on the Rwandan side of the lake are Kibuye and Gisenyi, and both are excellent locations for solo excursions. Gisenyi, the bigger of the two towns, shares a border with the city of Goma in the Democratic Republic of Congo, and thus has a larger selection of restaurants, bars, and general activities. However, kayaking, hikes, boat rides, and more are available from both towns. Buses run from Kigali to Kibuye and Gisenyi fifteen times a day, leaving from the Nyabugogo Bus Terminal every thirty minutes starting at 7 am. It is here you can see the famous Singing Fishermen of Lake Kivu as they head out in their three-hulled fishing boats. With characteristic long poles attached to their bows and sterns, these fascinating boats become slowly silhouetted against the darkening sky. In small groups, they seek the deep water a few kilometres out into the lake from where they cast their nets and fish throughout the night.

Where to stay

There are plenty of accommodation options available across Rwanda, with offerings accounting for different tastes and budgets. Although Rwanda isn’t particularly known for its hostels, there are plenty of budget options for travellers attempting to travel on the cheap. On the other hand, Rwanda is also becoming known as a luxury destination, and has a lot to offer the upmarket solo adventurer.

What to eat

Rwandan food is neither spicy nor hot. People eat simple meals made with locally grown ingredients. Dishes consist mainly of sweet potatoes, beans, corn, peas, millet, plantains, cassava, and fruit. Umutsima (a dish of cassava and corn), isombe (cassava leaves with Eggplant and spinach) and mizuzu (fried plantains) are common dishes. There is an abundance of fruits including avocados, bananas, mangos, pineapple, and papaya.

What to do

There are so many activities and things to experience in Rwanda, you need more than just a week. Two weeks would be just right to get around and experience it all. If you are pressed for time however, these are some of the must do activities.

Gorilla Trekking

Gorilla trekking permits will set you back USD$1500 per person and gives you 1 hour with the gorillas once you reach them. Critically endangered and currently numbering about 1,000 individuals (according to the 2018 census results), the mountain gorillas can only be found in two places in the world: the Virunga Massif, a volcanic range that straddles Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, as well as Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Uganda.

After equipping yourselves with the essential gorilla trekking gear (hiking boots, long trousers, gloves, etc), the park’s head ranger will divide you and other trekkers into different groups basing on your fitness. Usually, the more physically fit track gorilla groups that require a shorter, less strenuous trek while the fit ones can scour the forest for a longer time, and at a relatively higher altitude.

The mountain gorillas you’ll be allowed to view are families that have been habituated. As the excursion progresses deeper into the forest, your guide will point out signs of previous gorilla activity – dung, nests, chewed bamboo shoots, etc. Once you find them, you’ll be allowed to stay with them for one hour. And despite their intimidating, massive size, don’t fret! Habituated gorillas are not aggressive; they’ll just stare at you blankly.

Hike volcanoes

The volcanic peaks of Bisoke, Sabinyo, Gahinga, Muhabura, and Karisimbi offer some of the region’s best day or overnight hikes, with booking available through the Rwandan Development Board website or licensed tour operators. Most of the volcanoes are in the Musanze district (just like gorilla trekking), and offer just spectacular views.

Shop your way through Kigali

 

Though fantastic markets are dotted throughout the country, the best shopping is located in Kigali. Spend your days picking out handwoven baskets and colourful kitenge fabrics, before searching out some handmade candles, jewellery, and haute couture.

Visit the lakes

Rwanda is home to many lakes, many of which offer idyllic retreats and quiet getaways. Laze a weekend away on Lake Kivu, Lake Muhazi, or the the twin lakes, enjoying a classic Rwandan landscape and a selection of hikes, kayaking trips, and boat rides.

Cultural Experiences

Rwanda’s ancient traditions of honour and hospitality run strong and anybody who takes the time to discover Rwandan culture for themselves will find a proud and unique people, happy to welcome you into their lives and introduce you to their traditions. A visit to Gorilla Guardians Village which is located adjacent to Parc National des Volcans in Nyabigoma, Kinigi, Musanze district Northern Province will give great insight into the Rwanda traditions and way of life. The village also helps locals who were once poachers in the National Park, to have a better way of life to earn a living.  Here you can share with local people home and heritage treasures including lifestyles, activities, artifacts and ways of living of local people. Gorilla guardians Village is committed at demonstrating the ways of living, traditional lifestyles and dances to tourists.

Tips for travelling alone in Rwanda

Visa

From 1st Jan 2018, Nationals of all countries receive visa on arrival at Kigali International Airport and all land borders. The visa costs USD$30 and it is recommended you have this in cash on arrival as EFTPOS facilities are not always available. Your passport must have at least 6 months validity past the date of entry and an onward ticket from the country is required.

Currency

USD are widely accepted throughout Rwanda and most of your accommodation and activities are booked with USD. Rwandan Francs are good to have also for smaller purchases locally like coffees, taxi fares and snacks. ATMs and banks are hard to find outside of Kigali so make sure you get the money you need when in town.

Transportation

Public buses, motorcycles-for-hire, and private taxis are the general modes of transit in Rwanda. Negotiations are necessary with both taxis and motorcycles (referred to as ‘motos’ in Rwanda), with prices for motos rarely going beyond 1,000 Rwandan Francs ($1.5 U.S.D.) and taxis depending on distance and time. Rwanda’s bus system is pretty reliable and clean, with all buses in Kigali originating at the Nyabugogo bus terminal.

Health and safety

Don’t drink the tap water in Rwanda and try to avoid ice as well. Unfortunately, although the country is impressively clean and environmentally-friendly, water-borne diseases are still fairly common. Make sure to consult your doctor before travelling, keeping on eye on malaria, typhoid, and bilharzia prevention. If necessary, King Faisal hospital in the Kacyiru neighbourhood of Kigali and the Polyclinic in Kiyovu are open twenty-four hours a day.

While Rwanda is considered to be one of the safest countries in the world it is still advised to be cautious so still pay attention to your surroundings and belongings.

Communication

English is widely spoken in Kigali and Musanze, though use of it lessens outside of the major cities. French, Kinyarwanda, and Swahili are used almost everywhere, although it generally is pretty easy to communicate regardless of location or language. WiFi is generally pretty unreliable throughout the country, and investing in a local SIM card (Tigo, MTN, or Airtel are the best) for data usage is definitely recommended.

Some handy phrases to learn are as follows:

English Ikinyarwanda (Kinyarwanda)
Welcome Murakaza neza
Hello (General greeting) Muraho
Bite (inf)
How are you? Amakuru? (News?)
Amakuru yawe? (Your news?)
Umeze gute? (You good?) – sg
Mumeze gute? (You good?) – pl
Biri kugenda bite? (inf)
Bite byanyu? (inf)
Bite se? (inf)
Bite se sha? (inf)
Reply to ‘How are you?’ Ni meza
Meza neza (I go good)
Tumeza neza (We go good)
Nibyiza, murakoze, nawe se?
Long time no see Hashi zi jeyeytili tuta bonana
What’s your name? Witwa nde?
Nitwa gute?
My name is … Nitwa …
Where are you from? Muturuka he?
I’m from …
Pleased to meet you Ndabishimiye (sg)
Nishimiye kuba menya (pl/frm)
Good morning
(Morning greeting)
Mwaramutse
Good afternoon
(Afternoon greeting)
Mwiriwe
Good evening
(Evening greeting)
Mwiriwe neza
Good night Muramuke
Goodbye
(Parting phrases)
Murabeho
Mwirirwe (afternoon)
Muramuke (evening)
Turongera
Good luck! Amahirwe masa
Mwishyuke
Cheers! Good Health!
(Toasts used when drinking)
Kubuzima bwacu!
Have a nice day Umunsi mwiza
Bon appetit /
Have a nice meal
Muryoherwe
Bon voyage /
Have a good journey
Urugendo rwiza
I understand Ndabyumva
I don’t understand Simbyumva
Yes Yego
No Oya
I don’t know Simbizi
Please speak more slowly Vuga buhoro buhoro
Please say that again Subiramo
Ushobora gusubiramo?
Please write it down
Do you speak English? Uvuga icyongereza?
Do you speak Kinyarwanda? Uvuga Ikinyarwanda?
Yes, a little
(reply to ‘Do you speak …?’)
How do you say … in Kinyarwanda? Uvuga ngwiki … mu Kinyarwanda?
Excuse me Imbabazi
Ndasaba inzira
Mbabarira (sg)
Mutubabarire (pl)
How much is this? Nangahe?
Sorry Mbabarira
Ihangane
Please Nyamuneka
Kunezeza
Thank you Murakoze
Urakoze
Reply to thank you Ntacyo
Where’s the toilet / bathroom? Aho kwituma ni he?

 

To find out more about travelling Rwanda, contact Kate – @TravellerKate on hello@travellingsolo.com.au 

 

Kate Webster is a travel journalist – writer and photographer who travels the globe in search of vivid imagery and compelling stories that capture the essence of the places she visits. Born out of a life-long love of travel and fascination with the world around her, is Kate’s inspiration behind her writing and photography.